The following appendix taken from Tryptamine Palace by James Oroc.
There are numerous plants that contain psychoactive tryptamines, and so far as I am aware, none of these plants are themselves specifically scheduled. Below I make mention of a few of the plants that contain higher amounts of DMT and 5-MeO-DMT, and I note the range of their content based on analyses reported in the literature. This information is taken from the 2007 compendium Some Simple Tryptamines, second edition, by Keeper of the Trout & Friends; citations for the primary sources reporting on tryptamine content are all provided in that book. Unless otherwise noted, all weight ranges listed refer to analysis of dried plant material. It is important to realize that natural products can vary dramatically with regard to potency, and in most cases there are not very many distinct analytical data points (from multiple researchers, reporting on multiple plant samples) to go on. If a single figure is given rather than a range, it is because no further quantitative analysis data was available. A plant’s genetics, environment, the time of year, and even the time of day, can all play a part in the concentration of its alkaloids. Hence, the range of figures provided below for each plant should only be seen as a “rough guide” related to chemical content. Also, some of these plants may contain other chemicals (psychoactive, non-active, or toxic) in them along with the targeted tryptamines reported on here. Those considering performing extractions on any plant materials should further inform themselves of the entire chemical profile of a plant as well as of the laws in the country that they live in. Manufacture (including extraction), possession, or sale of a controlled substance is a crime that can result in a lengthy prison term and significant fines.
Acacia maidenii: DMT in bark at 0.36%; 5-MeO-DMT in trace amounts
Acacia obtusifolia (= A. intertexta): DMT in bark at 0.1–0.7%; 5-MeO-DMT possibly present in trace amounts
Acacia phlebophylla: DMT leaf at 0.3%
Acacia simplicifolia: DMT in bark at 0.81%
Anadenanthera peregrina: DMT in immature seeds at 0.16%; 5-MeO-DMT in roots 0.678%
Desmanthus illinoensis: DMT in root-bark at 0.34%
Diplopterys cabreana: DMT in leaf at 1.46%; 5-MeO-DMT in leaf and dried stem in trace amounts
Meliocope leptococca (= Evodia leptococca): 5-MeO-DMT in aerial parts 0.21%
Mimosa tenuiflora (= M. hostilis): DMT in root-bark at 0.31–11%
Phalaris aquatica: 5-MeO-DMT in leaf at 0.01–0.28%
Phalaris aquatica cv. AQ-1: DMT at 1+%; 5-MeO-DMT in trace amounts
Phalaris arundinacea P.I. 172442 Turkey (cv. Turkey Red): 5-MeO-DMT in leaf is the predominant alkaloid from a total wet weight alkaloid range of 0.0025–0.045%
Pilocarpus organensis: 5-MeO-DMT in leaf at 0.41% (Caution: Shulgin & Shulgin 1997 and Ott 1994 both pointed out that other species of Pilocarpus are known to contain the poisonous cholinergic chemical pilocarpine.)
Psychotria carthaginensis: DMT in leaf 0.0–0.65%
Psychotria viridis: DMT in leaf 0.1–0.34%
Virola calophylla: DMT in leaf at 0.15%; 5-MeO-DMT in bark at trace amounts
Virola rufula: DMT in bark at 0.19%; 5-MeO-DMT in bark at trace amounts
Virola theiodora: DMT in bark at 0.003–0.25%; DMT in flowering shoots at 0.44%; 5-MeO-DMT in bark at 0.11%
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Disclaimer #1: DMT is illegal in many countries, and its extraction may be against the law; Manufacture (including extraction), possession, or sale of a controlled substance is a crime that can result in a lengthy prison term and significant fines; This information is for educational purposes only.
Disclaimer #2: The handling of dangerous chemicals may be involved. Always use appropriate equipment, clothing, and safety procedures.
How to extract DMT from natural sources
The following extraction procedure has been reprinted with permission from a 2006 issue of The Entheogen Review. (Vol. XV, No.3). It has been slightly edited, with additional comments added in italics. While this article describes the extraction of N,N-DMT from Mimosa tenuiflora (= M. hostilis) root bark, it is possible that this method (or similar) may work for extracting 5-MeO-DMT from a Phalaris grass variety that contains this as its sole or primary alkaloid. Such as P. aquatica “Clone #R51”, P. aquatica cv. “Australian Commercial,” or P. arundinaceous cv. “Turkey Red”.
DMT for the Masses by Norman
The intent of this tek is to simplify the extraction process as much as possible, so that the average person can complete it in a kitchen in one evening. While I think that I have accomplished this goal, experimentalists must still do their homework. It is a good idea to read a few different teks before deciding which one to use, and to research safe handling procedures for the chemicals and equipment required. I don’t provide instructions for the decanting, siphoning, and filtering, for example, because I assume that those interested in performing kitchen chemistry will educate themselves on such basic procedures.
* Mimosa tenuiflora (+ M. hostilis) root bark.
* A coffee grinder, or heavy duty blender (one that will crush ice).
* A wide-mouth glass mixing jar with a tight fitting lid (a quart jar can do 50 grams of bark, a gallon pickle jar can do 200 grams).
* Distilled water.
* Lye. (sodium hydroxide). Red Devil is often the preferred variety.
* Naphtha (VM&P, not lighter fluid - Ace Hardware have a good variety.)
* Four wide-mouthed 8-ounce collection jars with lids. (Canning or jelly jars)
* A separatory funnel or gear to siphon or decant. (A turkey baster).
* Coffee filters.
* A rubber spatula
* A freezer set to a very cold temperature (it should freeze ice cream rock-hard).
1) Snap the M. tenuiflora root-bark into small pieces and run it through the coffee grinder or blender at high speed. Better still buy the bark pre-ground if you can. You may need pruning sheers to cut the root-bark small enough to grind properly. Pulverize it until it is just fiber and pink/purple dust - it needs to be completely broken down. The dust is very fine and astringent to one’s respiratory tract, so wear a dust mask.
2) Combine the lye and the water in the mixing jar. Use 15ml water and one gram of lye for every gram of root-bark that will later be added to the mixing jar. For example: 50 grams of root-powder = 750 ml water and 50g lye.
NOTE: Lye is dangerous and can blind you forever. Use with extreme caution; and have a bottle of vinegar handy to neutralize the lye if you have any spills. Always wear gloves and eye protection when dealing with lye. Add the lye to the water, while slowly and constantly stirring until it has completely dissolved. Never add water to lye - this can cause a volcano like reaction.
3) Add the powdered root bark into the lye/water solution in your mixing jar. Cap and shake the jar, then let sit for an hour.
4) Now add to the mixing jar 1 ml of naphtha for each 15 ml of water used to create the lye solution. Turn the jar end-over-end. Do not shake or splash; simply roll the naphtha around in the root-bark powder solution to mix it. Gently do this for one minute, and then let the jar stand until the naphtha has mostly separated and is floating on top. Repeat this agitation process three more times.
5) After the final agitation, allow enough time to pass for the naptha to again float to the top, and then separate the two layers. The naphtha goes in one of the collection jars, everything else stays in the mixing jar. A separatory funnel is the easiest means to accomplish separation of the two layers, but various techniques of siphoning or decanting could also be employed. Drawing the clear naphtha layer off with a turkey baster works well. None of the dark (lower) solution should be allowed in the collection jar - just the naphtha
6) Repeat steps 4-5 above three more times. You will be reprocessing the same original root-bark material and lye solution, but using fresh naphtha with each reprocessing, in order to thoroughly extract the DMT from it. When you have finished, place all four collection jars in your freezer and go to bed. You will have four “snow cones” waiting for you in the morning.
7) Pour the naphtha from each jar through a coffee filter, saving the naphtha. A lot of paste will stick to the jar, so use a small rubber spatula to scrape this paste from the jar’s sides down into the filter as well. Spread out each filter to dry. There will be some residue left in the jars; a bit of Salvia divinorum or Cannabis can be used to scrub them out, providing an enhanced aspect of to those herbs.
8) The paste must be allowed to dry thoroughly; chop and stir it a couple of times to make sure that this is the case. Once it seems to be dry, crush up any lumps.
9) [NOTE; If you intend to recrystallize your material in order to further purify it, you can skip this step.] Combine all the dried material into one coffee filter. Wash this material by pouring freezer temperature non-sudsy ammonia over it and through the coffee filter. If you can get 10% ammonia (“janitor strength”) all the better. But it is imperative that it is of the non-sudsy variety. You can shake the bottle to tell; if it creates suds, get a different kind. Rinsing wont take much ammonia, about 4 ounces for a 200 gram batch. Stir the powder around while rinsing to make sure that all of it is thoroughly wetted. A good bit of mass will wash away - perhaps 25-45% - but its nothing you want to be smoking anyway.
You should be left with about 0.5% of the weight of root-bark in DMT powder. When dried, it is perfectly smokable at this point, but it can be refined by further recrystallization.
For our current purposes, the idea behind recrystallization is that the chosen solvent holds more DMT when hot then cold, and that some impurities remain more easily within cold solvent. While naphtha will work for recrystallization, a far better solvent to use at this point is heptane. Which is available as BestineÒ, a rubber cement remover available at art supply stores.
Place a glass container holding the DMT and a glass container filled with the recrystallization solvent together in a pan of hot water. Shot glasses in a saucepan work well for a gram or two. The fumes from your solvent are extremely flammable, so only use a contained electric heating source (Electric ranges and gas stoves must be avoided.) The DMT will already be melting if the water is hot enough. Add the hot solvent little by little while agitating the DMT, until all the material has been dissolved. Use 20-30ml of solvent (or less) per gram of powder; you want to use as little solvent as possible. When all of the material has gone into solution, the solvent will be a clear yellow. Leave the pan of water with the DMT container to cool down to room temperature. Then remove the DMT container, and put it in your refrigerator, Later move it into your freezer. This step-wise process allows for gradual cooling and the precipitation of crystals. You will end up with DMT crystals of varying purity on top of a pellet of slag, which still contains quite a bit of DMT. DO the coffee filter bit again to dry the material, and then separate the crystals from the slag. The crystals can be further refined or redissolved into the next batch. The naphtha can be reused or evaporated down, with the residue scraped and cleaned. And don’t forget to scrub those jars and utensils with some of your favorite smoking herb.
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In many ways the various complex aspects of the plant-entheogen admixture ayahuasca is a significant subject all of it own. Those specifically interested in ayahuasca should consult www.ayahuasca.com for more in depth information and discussion. The following excellent guide to the basic procedures of preparing the various forms of ayahuasca comes from the public forum on that site.
Ayahuasca.com FAQ on Preparation
Many people come here with brewing questions that have already been answered. The brewing information can be hard to find, scattered among several years worth of posts; as this forum grows, it seems beneficial to compile it into a quasi-FAQ. As such, this collection has been combed from the preparation forum and put together; it is the collective work of forum members over the course of several years, each section and technique posted by a different forum member. Questions should be asked on the respective thread of a particular tec or in a new thread if needed.
However, the comment below that “ayahuasca is not for dummies” should be taken very seriously. This collection of brewing methods should not in any way be a substitute for the research and soul searching one must undergo before journeying with the tea. If a thread is linked to for any specific recipe, it is highly recommended that you read the entire thread to learn more about the tek, its results, and people’s experiences/thought experiments with it. If the amounts of ingredients suggested vary from method to method, please take heed of this; it is not an accidental oversight. It is recommended that one begin with the simpler, more traditional brewing methods; note that the traditional amazonian method, one wash and sans acid, can be found under "misc. tecs".
The information collected here is not an endorsement of illegal activities; this should be used for purely educational reasons and put into practice only in places where such activities are completely legal.
Brewers and drinker’s inside hints and tips
There are supposedly many ways to prepare good ayahuasca but I have found only one way that produces anything worth drinking.
There is enough information (and mis-information!) in the back pages of this forum for anyone with intelligence and a basic understanding of the physical-chemical processes involved to derive a theoretically sound way of preparing the sacrament. I would like to clarify some things to prevent the misinformation from putting people off brewing.
I'm not interested in providing a complete "tek" or recipe as has been done for DMT and mushrooms elsewhere. These endeavours surely make their authors feel good about themselves, but I feel that a "complete brewing guide for dummies" has no place here, as ayahuasca is not for dummies! The point is not to mechanically follow my instructions to the letter , but to develop a brewing tecnhique that one is happy with. The brewing is as important as the drinking itself. As i see it, successfully preparing and drinking a brew is an extremely satisfying alchemy , if not the state-of-the-art in consciousness expansion tecnhiques.
Apart from the technicalities, i have learned the importance of intent and atittude. I won't go as far as to say or deny that the psychic-energetical qualities of the brew may be affected by the intent and atittude of the brewer, only that full awareness and concentration as well as absence of stress, are essential with any non-repetitive work, let alone the preparation of a sacrament.
It does seem that the brew, even when well-prepared, just doesn't work at times and this can be related to the set and setting, and many other variables and reasons. Perseverance is definitely worth it, and i have come to a situation where it always works , from only occasionally working when i started . It does seem to work best when done as part of a ritualised act, whether developed by yourself and means simply focussing your whole being onto the moment, or as part of an ayahuasca tradition (not my cup of tea) .
The brew seems to particularly not like being prepared or taken in a hurry. The right brewing attitude is really something that one develops over time and will be related to the brewer's relationship with the brew.
Back to the technicalities: What is a good brew?
Buying the herbs mail order is not so cheap for regular use, so we are concerned here with extraction efficiency and brew digestibility, as well as with using only safe, easily obtainable, non-toxic materials. Many of us are more interested in the entheogenic as opposed to purely purgative effects. To obtain any entheogenic effects it feels necessary that the brew is not immediately rejected by the stomach . To me, a good brew contains no acid other than what was in the herbs to begin with. Any other extra acid simply makes it taste even more bitter and makes it more difficult for the stomach to hold down. To extract the alkaloids more efficiently from the herbs into the water some extra acid is needed, along with heat. Therefore the conscienscious brewer looks for a FOOD GRADE acid (preferably organic) that evaporates with boiling. Absolutely no chemicals. No coca cola(!) No lemon juice, as it doesn't boil off. This narrows down the choices quite a lot. The brew is boiled down to a small volume, then water is added and boiled again and again, adding water as needed, until absolutely no smell of acid is emanating from the pot. The correct acid to use has a distinctive and familiar smell. The active ingredients are not affected AT ALL by boiling in this situation.
With all this cooking down, the good brewer remains hovering over the pot throughout and does not wander off out of the kitchen to produce amazing ayahuasca images on the computer , because the brew will be immediately burned. If the phone rings or anything happens , the cooker is TURNED OFF, until the attention can return to the cooking. The bad brewer may be lucky if s/he catches it before it goes black and starts to burn. The residue is covered with water and scraped off the bottom of the pot , and heated to redissolve it. If it didn't burn , it'll probably be OK. It can survive a very light toasting.
Before cooking down .the good brew has also been allowed to sit for a while to let any sediment settle, which is left out, and filtered .
The good brew is not more than 100ml for a good dose. I go for around 60ml-70ml. Volume is adjusted by boiling or adding water.
All the above refers to preparing the two component herbs separately, via the same technique.
What water to use is a tough one . The purist endlessly argues with the naturalist on distilled vs mountain spring water. Distilled water will eliminate the possibilty of losses due to a rise in pH.
The connoisseur rejects any non-liquid preparations such as dried extracts unless they are produced using only food-grade materials, contain no citric or other added acid and are redissolved in some water. Freebased alkaloids are out of the question, as their production is not possible by using only food-grade materials.
Regarding herbs: There seems to be quite a bit of very weak or inactive chacruna in the market. Chacruna is definitely the nicest to drink, from the herbs that are available in the market, but i haven't had much entheogenic effect from it. The cheapest and most potent herbs are also the worse ones to drink. Mimosa brew in particular is extremely disagreeable to the stomach, containing lots of tannins. It makes peyotea taste like sweet lemonade in comparison! In fact it is not used in this way anywhere. Supposedly it is prepared only by cold water infusion in the dying jurema cult... .Syrian rue tea is of unproven safety for long term regular internal consumption (correct me if i'm wrong please), but the extract via the vinegar and salt technique should be OK as it only isolates the b-carbolines, i'm told.
Drinking it is also an art to practice and perfect.
The good drinker maintains a healthy diet . The more fresh (uncooked) fruit and vegetables the better. On the day of the session the good drinker may eat a light healthy meal at the latest 4 hours before the session. S/he eats and drinks NOTHING for around 3 hours before and after the drinking has commenced. Nothing means no water either! This seems to help a lot in absorbing the medicine wihout immediately throwing it up. Of course any drugs or medication are completely and utterly out of the question (for me this includes cannabis).
Despite what you might read, there is no standard dose, of either of the herbs involved. Some under-and over-dosing is par of the course. Also , despite what you might read, is seems more effective to take the two together , or at least the admixture very closely following the vine/rue. I usually prefer to sip the vine/rue extract first, then as soon as that is all drunk, I start sipping the admixture. No waiting for 45 minutes as some people prescribed. (note: I've been told that pure spice combined with vine tea is better taken after , not mixed together).
The good drinker at some point attempts to find their maximum dose.
The good drinker does not attempt to get the maximum visionary effects right now by drinking quickly. Hastiness and lust for results usually leads to failure via premature nausea. The most important thing is that the liquids are drunk with the utmost respect and concentration and above all SLOWLY. This means a sip at a time over the course of half an hour or even more. This is very important in giving one's body the time to absorb this potent but tricky medicine and familiarise itself with it. The good drinker relaxes but also maintains strict economy of thought, speech and movement during the first hour or until the effects have stabilised and the critical phase of initial nausea (if any) is past. There are many subtle body and emotional adjustments that take place under the influence of the vine and rue (the latter perhaps to a lesser extent), that prepare the drinker's being for what's coming. The good drinker clears the mind and relaxes the body, and feels what the medicine is doing in his/her body as it gradually comes on. The focus of attention is turned on the body and its breathing. The aim is for a gradually deepening immersion into entheogenic space. When it really works there will be no doubts about whether it's working or not. The most important thing is that the liquids are drunk with the utmost respect and concentration and above all SLOWLY. This means a sip at a time over the course of half an hour or even more. (The repetition is no mistake here.)
Sometimes vomiting is simply inevitable. If this occurs , the good drinker is not disappointed or angry, as often there are many positive effects even when the brew stayed down only briefly. Purging does not alway imply a loss , and is a part of the cleansing catalysed by the brew.
The experienced drinker does not hesitate if the first effects come on early but carries on sipping until the measured dose is all consumed. S/he will also have prepared an extra dose in case the first one was lost in any way. By slowly sipping it may be possible to gradually take in larger doses over longer stretches of time, maintaining a prolonged, balanced plateau of expanded consciousness. I'll tell you for sure next year! I have been doing strong brews and rarely felt the need to prolong the session. (or couldn't face drinking any more bitterness!)
Sometimes when a brew seems to not be doing much , and a little food is taken (i've used fresh fruit effectively), this quickly triggers a rush of strong effects, that were seemingly lying dormant. How this "works" is not clear to me, and i've only triggered it accidentally a few times when i thought the session was over and ate a little fruit. But it's been of no help to others.
The wise drinker is in no hurry , knows that following instructions on what is ultimately a spiritual/magical practice is not much fun and prefers to find by trial and error....but at least takes into account what i have to suggest, unless s/he is prepared to waste quite a bit of good plant material and to have to swallow some unswallowable stuff...
This is not just an attempt at being clever, but also a response to many posts asking about why it didn't work...
Possibly someone will dispute the effectiveness of the above , so in the end readers will need to exercise discrimination , as with the rest of the internet.
Determining the strength of the plants
What is written below is by no means information of a final and certain nature, but merely what has been picked up along the way and should be largely accurate and used as a guide for ascertaining dosage of betacarbolines and tryptamines in plants used making ayahuasca.
Different types of vine vary in potency (i.e. amounts of betacarbolines which are MAOI'S) and the types of betacarbolines in the type or strain of vine...this in itself can widely vary the type of experience that one can have...ayahuasca is a vertible cocktail of betacarbolines which as far as I know, are not found in great quantities in syriun rue seeds, which generally contains largers amounts of harmaline and harmaline in different concentrations than the more 'esoteric' beta carbolines often found in ayahuasca vine.
This is the key, all plants are variable all the time, and there are so many factors it can be difficult to really ascertain how much to use.
As a guide, the ayahuasca vine grows in thickness according to its age, with very large and thick pieces being much older than very thin pieces.
The older pieces generelly contain a much higher amount of beta carbolines than younger pieces...although this may not always be the case.
Older pieces are not necessarily 'better' than younger pieces, but as a general guide, vine should really not be harvested until it reaches 3-4 years of age, when it is clearly mature and becomes thicker than the width of one's finger .
In that case, a general rule for strong ayahuasca is to use a length of vine the length of a human being! I have yet to weigh this, but think it is about 100-150 grams.
Wheras, if one is using much older, and thicker ayahuasca, 30 grams may be sufficient...however, if one is combining the chackruna (psychrotria) with the vine, this may not be enough to really kick the experience in strongly enough, resulting in a shorter experience of half and hour to an hour, rather than 3 hours +. And so 50-70 grams may be considered then to be a strong dosage of an average thickness of vine .
When combining, I've come the conclusion it may be a good idea to take two amounts of ayahuasca, say with 1 cup containing the equivalent 30-40 grams of vine and 20-30 grams of chakruna and then 40-50 minutes later taking another cup containing 20-30 grams of vine and 30 to 70 grams of chakruna. This is so that one takes the brew combined and balanced first and this gives times for the beta carbolines to kick in fully before taking the bulk of the DMT in the chakruna.
Reduced down to amounts below 30mls, these amounts are relatively easy to drink down in a shot glass...and taking a second shot is not a hugely daunting task!
There is something to be said for keeping the amounts above 100mls or even at 200mls, which allows more of a drinking and time to assimilate oneself with the brew if that is chosen .
Taking the ayahuasca vine first, and then the chakruna 40 minutes + works fine, people tend not to throw up the ayahuasca by itself...but it just depends...one can wait for the throwup and then drink the chakruna brew.
As for Chakruna, I am aware of some material grown in the west, as being of 0.3% concentration of DMT. So 100 grams of this material would equal to 300mg of DMT.
I have a suspicion much chakruna is about 0.2-4% and weaker material being only 0.1%...
I have found that what J. Ott wrote is kind of redundant now...his standard dose, 60mg is really not enough DMT for all purposes...that dose only really may bring on slight visuals and an open state in most people...150mg is more like a beginning where an obvious psychedelic reality becomes evident to people. 200mg I would consider more of a standard visionary dosage and between 200-300mg as being quite strong dosages for those who can handle that type of immersion and their consequent connections. 350-400mg is a good dosage for harder heads and 500mg is just too much and just unecessary for most anyone.
However, the dosage of DMT in the plants is facilitated by the beta carbolines and with a very strong ayahuasca dose 100-150mg of DMT may well be enough...and with DMT, it is often not dosage which is that important, as long as there is enough...and it is more rewarding to do more rather than less...
If one is using syriun rue seeds as an MAO inhibitor, remember than the considered standard dose of 3 grams is based upon the same factors of there being different alkaloids in different seeds and different concentrations of those alkaloids in the seeds. Shulgin in THIKAL makes this quite clear...
The best way to use Syriun Rue is likely as the pure harmala extract of the seeds, dosages of harmala crystals appears to begin at 250mg and 300mg-350mg is more of a standard dosage, wrapped in cigarette paper or drunk in water (yuck!). This greatly reduces the other alkaloids in syriun rue, which have a slight toxicity and make Syriun Rue quite difficult to work with at times!
A good experiment is to try using harmala extract with a chackruna brew and compare the experiene to using chakruna with ayahuasca vine.
I feel that the vine often has a strong feminine earthly pull, and concentration upon physical and human aspects, while the harmala may allow and facilitate the DMT and multidimensionality with more transparency. While the vine may smooth out and integrate the effects of the DMT in a balancing motion with allows much assimilation and direct healing, effect of the plants intelligence upon the human organism.
These are just some of the perceptions and understandings I have had, and there is by no means a consensus about these types of issues yet.
Basic brewing method
Three recipes follow; the first uses Caapi and chacruna, the second uses Caapi and Mimosa, and the third uses Rue and Mimosa. These recipes are listed in order of preference, by ingredients, taste, “hit rate”, and so on. Lemon juice should be avoided at all costs. For discussions of Rue, Caapi, and the denotation of the term “Ayahuasca”, please see What is Ayahuasca? and Ingredients in Ayahuasca and analog brews. It is recomended that one begin with a caapi-only brew, which can be made by leaving out the chacruna/mimosa and following the recipe below.
The first recipe has the ingredients brewed together. For those who wish to drink the caapi and chacruna seperately, see the second recipe.
It is recomended that you brew two doses for each person. If you cannot keep the tea down and purge sooner than you would like, you will then have another cup to drink.
Be thankful for the experience, no matter what happens. there are always lessons to be learned, whether it "works" or not, whether you have a "good" trip or a "bad" one.
Ayahuasca (Caapi and Chacruna)
50 grams of caapi (whole vine, not shredded/powdered)
50 grams of p. viridis (Chacruna) .
white vinegar or cider vinegar
distilled or filtered water
2 STAINLESS STEEL or PYREX Ceramic pots (do not use aluminum.)
1) wrap the caapi in a towel and break it up with a hammer until it is shredded.
2) In one pot, put in the chacruna, the caapi, a tablespoon of vinegar, and a 2-3 liters of water.
3) simmer for 2-3 hours or until water level gets low. avoid boiling- it should be just cool enough not to bubble. Speak your intentions to the brew as it is brewing; listen to the sounds it makes. do not leave it unattended; if you need to do something different, turn off the stove.
4) pouring the brew into a second pot or container, filter through a cloth (eg a t-shirt) until the brew becomes clear, probably 4 or 5 times. (an excellent method for easy filtering is to duct tape a t-shirt over an empty pot, allowing you both hands to pour the brew. the t-shirt will become quickly clogged, so for each filter you must use a fresh section of cloth.) If a second pot is available, you can reduce the first wash while continuing with the second two; if not, the succesive washes can be collected and reduced the next day.
5) repeat steps 2-5 three times. (As an analogy, what you are doing is similar to successively making three cups of tea with one teabag, combining each of those three cups into one pot, and boiling this down so it fits into one cup.)
6) at this point you will have a pot of reduced, drinkable ayahuasca. each dose should between the size of a standard shot and a cup. (less concentrated brews taste better, but leave you with more to drink.)
Ayahuasca (Caapi and Mimosa)
50 grams of caapi (whole vine, not shredded/powdered)
Between 5-12 grams of mimosa hostilis root bark (again, not shredded or powdered.) Start low with the quantity of mimosa until you have identified the potency of the batch you are working with.
white vinegar or cider vinegar
distilled or filtered water
*4 STAINLESS STEEL or PYREX CERAMIC pots
1) wrap the caapi in a towel and break it up with a hammer until it is shredded. powder the mimosa with a coffee grinder or shred by hand.
2) In one pot, put in the mimosa, a tablespoon of vinegar, and a 2-3 liters of water.
3) In another pot, put in the caapi, and a similar amount of water and vinegar.
4) simmer for 2-3 hours or until water level gets low. avoid boiling- it should be just cool enough not to bubble. Speak your intentions to the brew as it is brewing; listen to the sounds it makes. do not leave it unattended; if you need to do something different, turn off the stove.
5) keeping the mimosa and the caapi seperate, filter each through a cloth (eg a t-shirt) until the brew becomes clear, probably 4 or 5 times. (an excellent method for easy filtering is to duct tape a t-shirt over an empty pot, allowing you both hands to pour the brew. the t-shirt will become quickly clogged, so for each filter you must use a fresh section of cloth.) put the mimosa tea in a pot for mimosa, the caapi in a pot for caapi, and reduce both; remember not to bring to a full boil.
6) repeat steps 2-5 three times, keeping the mimosa and caapi seperate. This method takes four pots, unless you spread it out over several nights.
7) at this point you will have a pot containing the three washes of mimosa, reduced, and the same for the caapi. each dose should be no smaller than half a cup and no larger than a cup. (less concentrated brews taste better, but leave you with more to drink.) Put them in the fridge overnight.
8) the next day, carefully remove the mimosa from the fridge. through a t-shirt filter, pour off the liquid; avoid disturbing the sludge/sediment on the bottom of the container. you dont need it. This is unnecessary if using viridis, and DO NOT do this with a reduced caapi brew; regardless, if you've filtered properly, your tea should be pretty clean. It should become clear when heated, and have a purplish color, much like red wine.
9) once you have done this, you have the option of combining the mimosa and the caapi or drinking the mimosa after the caapi. shake up the caapi to make sure that any sediment is in the tea and not on the bottom of the container. heat up the tea, drinking it warm.
*If you do not have enough pots for this method, the caapi and mimosa can be combined into one pot throughout the brewing and reduction process. if you are doing it like this, YOU MUST WAIT UNTIL THE SECOND NIGHT TO REDUCE. put the several liters of water in the fridge overnight; pour off the liqiud, leaving the sediment; THEN reduce and drink. Make sure your pots are steel- no aluminum and ABSOLUTELY no teflon.
Syrian Rue and Mimosa
follow one of the above recipes, with the respective substitutions. 3 grams of rue should be enough for sufficient mao inhibition; because of the nasties in rue and the heavier body load is highly recommended that you do not use more than five grams.
Greetings, valued friends.
I have had a lot of private requests to post about this method (as told to me by a magical hummingbird in a magical dream).
It seems that it might be time to do so, here, in this forum.
I hope this is the correct decision.
I trust that people will use this dream imagery with great care and resposibility... and sobriety.
If you dream of it, PLEASE... get the quantities right! Someone really messed that up a while back and had an unpleasant over acid reaction.
Done properly, it will produce a dream brew that is a good bit less acidic than a coke, and works wonderfully.
So the delightful creature appears in a dream and says...
"I have used phosphoric two ways.
First way is pretty much a traditional brewing , but with phos.
Now, 20 drops of 10% food grade phosphoric acid in 1/2 gal of distilled water = ph3... Please be sure to get that right!
So, place the herbs in the solution at a ratio of at least 20/1 solution/herbs, (by ounces).
Soak 1-3 days (the longer the better), in mason jar, shake vigorously as much as is practical, (several times a day).
Then simmer 3x (no boiling) for three hours or so, each simmer.
For 2nd simmer, use 1/2 as much acid, for 3rd use plain distilled h2o.
If you like, make the 3rd simmer longer, as you feel.
Each extraction is filtered through a permanent wire mesh coffee filter, then put in fridge for at least a day to completely settle.
Then carefully decant, leaving the sediment, combine, and gently reduce to 4-6 oz, total, per dream serving.
This tec has (in dreams) produced exceptional results with vine/leaf combo.
2nd tek... Long cold soak for rootbark (powdered, by dreamer)
Same solution, same ratio.
1st soak, 4-5 days in fridge shaking often. Filter, place in fridge to settle.
2nd soak, 4-5 days in fridge, with 1/2 the amount of acid, shaking often. filter, place in fridge to settle.
3rd soak (might be optional, it's pretty pale) 1-2 days, plain distilled water, shake, filter, place in fridge to settle.
After all the extractions have completely settled, VERY carefully decant, combine, and gently reduce to 2-3 oz per dream serving. Then in a dream, drink after drinking a caapi brew (2-3 oz) made with the other tec.
This cold soak bark tec has produced marvelous results, but...
WARNING!!! It is VERY STRONG!
A dreamer who has dreamed of as much as 33g of bark with another less effective tec, (DON"T TRY!) was fairly blown away by 8g! No kidding!
Another dreamer who I shared this with, who is experienced with hcl tec, said that he felt the phos tec was much stronger.
It seems that much of the magic here is in the fantastic absorption qualities of phos.
BTW, it's MUCH better tasting, as well. (compared to lemon or ascorbic)
You can probably use less acid, but the resulting brew is close to ph5, which is MUCH higher than a coke, and has produced no problems to date.
I have confidence that the cold tec would be equally as magical with vine/leaf, especially if one dreams of Hawaaian leaf, by far the best in the world.
I will try that soon.
Remember, both tecs will be significantly stronger than those with less effective acids, so adjust your amounts accordingly...
AND PROCEED WITH CARE AND RESPONSIBILTY!
Please love and take good care of yourself... PLEASE!"
Then he flew away at what seemed to be nearly the speed of light!
If there are any questions, I will pass them on next time I am graced with a visitation...
Be well, and sweet dreams...
HUMMINGBIRD’s Mr. Clean tek
Greetings aya friends!
Just got this letter from the Hummingbird via "Eastern Union"...
Here is the latest prefered variant on the tec for vine and leaf:
Powder herbs in coffee grinder after smashing vine with hammer. This is best done with a small shop anvil, (available cheap at most used tool shops, mine is a 15 pounder), with the vine rolled up in 2-3 zip lock baggies.
Place powdered herbs for one dream in 1/2 gal mason jar.
In another jar, place 1500ml distilled h20, and 15 drops 10% food grade phosphoric acid (makes ph 3)... mix...
and pour the water into the other jar with the powdered herbs.
Now, if at all possible, vacu-seal the jar. Then shake VERY WELL as often as is practical during a 2-3 day soak.
After soak, (and VERY ample smudging, if possible, throughout entire process), pour brew into stainless, heavy bottom pan.
Bring to a state of steaming, without boil, over a low flame, and simmer for two hours, covered, stirring and smudging often.
Turn off heat, let sit for 1/2 hour.
Carefully pour off liquid, through a permanent coffee filter, into 1/2 gallon mason jar. Vacu-seal, and place in refrigerator.
Place herbs back in pot with 1500 ml distilled h2o and 7 drops acid, and repeat simmer, let settle again, and pour off into another jar.
Now, let those jars settle in the frige for ONE WEEK!
You got it, one week. This is how you get the clean brew.
After the week settling, decant the brew VERY CAREFULLY, letting no sediment get into the pan you are pouring the brew into. This is a little tricky... when you see that the sediment layer is about to start pouring in with the brew, stop... and then pour the rest of the brew with the sludge, (small amount) into a glass, preferably narrow.
Put the pot with decanted brew on heated stove with very small flame, and slowly reduce... it may take more than a day... I suggest stirring (and smudging) often, putting much focus and energy into the brew.
(For some awesome mirror work, try looking into your reflection in the brew as you reduce and smudge...)
(BTW, I like to reduce the two extractions in seperate pans, so that it reduces faster, exposing the brew to the minimum heat necessary.)
While the brew is reducing, let the covered glass with the sludgy fraction of brew settle out in the frige, preferably overnight, but at least 6-8 hours or more. You can see when it has settled out.
Now, take a syringe or baster, and carefully remove the clean brew from on top of the sludge in the glass, and add to the reducing brew, preferably before it's way, way down.
Reduce brew to 4-6 ounces, according to preference, place in 1pt mason jar, vacu-seal, and put in frige or freezer, after copious smudging and focus of Intent.
The week long settling produces a dream brew that is very clean, and relatively mild tasting. When I began the reduction, the 1st extracion looked like pure gee!
Very clear, light rich gold!
And as it reduced, it looked more and more like a clear red mimosa tea, but with a slight golden hue.
The 2nd extraction was the same, only had a bit of brown cloudiness to it.
The final dream brew looked kind of like Red Zinger tea with cream, and tasted really mild.
As far as amount... this brew was 20/20, vine/leaf, but I must emphasise that these were REALLY top notch Hawaiian herbs.
This brew was made specifically to be light and clean, to facilitate energy clearing and body work.
It was feathery and clear, and worked very well... the whole aya space was there, lightly peaking through the seams of my consciousness, but not severely dominating it... allowing me to use and hone my own energetic Intent.
This new approach is very novel and useful to me, as I have always been a "deep sea diver", which is also cool, but this focused work-session was very beneficial.
If you want stronger, just use more herbs, but I advise starting smaller and finding out what you've got, and I must say, working with your energy at lower doses is wonderful training.
One more thing...
if you want to try infusing the brew with a bit more focus and Intent, do your shaking in a ceremonious, focussed way. I have been smudging and shaking the brew rhythmically to the sounds of recorded icaros. You may be led to something else, but this is a wonderful time to establish an immediate relationship with the brew you are making.
See you in the realms, Nap!
The friend of a friend gave me the following advice:
"The rough ratio for acidifying tap water depending on hardness is:
5 to 15 drops per 250 ml of water.
For bulky plants, that is plants such as caapi, viridis, and others where 30 grams or more is added, go toward the higher amount, and for MHRB toward the lesser amount."
He also advises, if one is in an area where tap water is hard, to use distilled or de-ionized water (one can buy this at the grocery store).
As for the pots and containers. HCl will not attack plastic. The plastic soda bottles are perfect for brewing purposes. As for the boiling containers NO METAL !
This is because HCl is very reactive to all metals and what will happen is that the brews made with it will become poisoned by metals leached out by the acid.
SO-- use only pyrex, corningware, or ceramic vessels and utensils when boiling down HCl brews.
All the excess acid, if any, can be elimated from the final product, the friend of my friend says, by use of a double boiler. That is take the smaller non-metalic pot with the brew boiled down to a few tablespoons and place it in a larger vessel, metallic or otherwise filled with water. Then turn up the heat bringing it to a boil. The HCl in the extract will then boil away, leaving a dry and pure residue long before water in the larger vessel boils away.
Simple and easy, and no acid remaining. The product, so the friend of my friend says, mixes very nicely with a cup of warm water.
No "battery acid" taste either.
In a dream, some unknown and un-nammed person extracted 18.5 grams MHRB to liquid form. This time the water was acidified to ph4.5 with diluted muriatic acid instead of an organic agent (6 drops). Filtration was done with crude coffee filter and refrigeration decantation method. The resulting ¼ cup of liquid was thin and watery, semi-transparent, with a less offensive taste. It may have been possible to reduce the volume even further, to perhaps a few tablespoons. The lack of organic acidifying agents seemed to have permitted the lack of viscosity. The brew was so thin that there was a concern that the extraction had not occurred. This fear turned out to be very unfounded. It seems that without the other organic compounds competing in the water for suspension, the extraction process was at least 30% more efficient.
The experience was far more powerful than expected, and had an electric and very “clean” quality about it. Drank the brew at about 7:30, and by 8:30 was already astonished at the depth and power of the experience. Visuals were persistent and spectacular throughout much of the experience. This one was everything an ayahuasca experience is said it should be.
**It is highly recomended that one use significantly less than 18.5 grams for one dose; often such extractions necesitate LESS than the aproximately 12 grams recomended for a normal brew. (see hummingbird's brews above for an example.) start low and work your way up- mimosa can be quite intense when she wants to be.**
Amazonian style ayahuasca, without acid
The Apprentice cooked Ayahausca yesterday for two sessions.
He cooked about 136gr. Ayahausca he brought from Peru (it means you can hardly get fresher from an online shop). And he added 20gr. of chagropanga (from Maurice Island - at least 6 months old). He cooked the whole thing for 3hours, then for 3 and last for 2, reduced and drank.
The whole thing without:
1. crushing or powdering the leafs in any way.
2. adding acid (of any kind).
He used just water from the tap.
And the apprentice felt it very well, had clear visions, although short. Vomited after about one hour and a half; felt like it was strong at that point. He even thought he was loosing control at moments (he was alone).
The Chagropanga was only 10gr. not crushed and without acid. It manifested by yawnings, then by vivd colours and visions. The Apprentice had a purpose with that brew and he found what he was looking for.
Same dose tomorrow.
Coca Cola tek
Once upon a time, there was an Insane Psychedelic Chef whose passion it was to not only effectively prepare sacred plants and make them edible, but to make them as tasty as he possibly could. He has successfully done this for such Entheogens as Morning Glory Seed Juice and San Pedro Flesh, and now, promising progress has been made with the most vile, yet most powerful Spirit of them all, Her Dark Majesty Ayahuasca.
Recently, he decided to experiment using one of his favorite drinks, Coca-Cola, which contains Phosphoric Acid and has a pH of about 2.8.
In order to extract approx. 15gm (20 leaves) of Diplopterys cabrerana, he prepared a solution consisting of 5oz. Coca-Cola and 10oz. Distilled Water. The foliage was finely crushed before it was added to the solution. The Brew was then brought to a boil and stirred for approx. 1hr. After this initial boiling, the volume of liqiud was approx. 8oz. The liquid was separated from the foliage and was filtered, while a new 1 Coke/2 Water solution was added to the remaining foliage in the cauldron. The initial process was repeated for another hour, and the final extraction was filtered and added to the previous one. The combined extractions were then boiled down to volume of about 1cup(8oz).(Three extractions is preferable.)
The Final Product looked like coke, but had a vary distinct Yage-Alkaloid smell. The taste of the tea was suprisingly quite pleasant, it tasted like a warm, exotic delicacy.
removing tannins with gelatin
Dagger reports that adding gelatin to a mimosa brew removes tannins (the reason for the vomiting). I would just like to comment on how incredibly true this is, and I believe that it is only fair to make this information more noticeable by giving it it's own post in this area of the forum. Gelatin bonds with tannins and polyphenols, turning them into a thick gummy substance that is easily removable from your brew. They actually use gelatin to reduce the astringency of red wines (the astrigent taste being caused by tannins).
In a dream, 28 grams of knox gelatin (readily available at any grocery store) was dissolved into warm water, and then poured into a fresh brew of 100 grams mimosa prepared with muriatic acid. Instantly, over 4 ounces of disgusting purple muck formed, which was easily removable due to its incredible density. The brew turned a light pink color, and produced NO nausea. The terrible taste was also reduced to a considerable degree (from disgusting to mildly unpleasant). Although I am sure there are more precise ways to go about doing this, it was definately a step in the right direction.
HCl rue extraction
Here is a theoretical HCl extraction for Peganum harmala.
25 grams of powdered (fine) Peganum harmala
750 ml water acidified with to 45 to 60 drops of HCl (>30 %).
Put everything in a glass container, and then microwave till it is hot, but not boiling. It is important not to hard boil it as this releases waxes and gums that are in the seeds.
Cover and let sit at room temperature for 24 hours. After 24 hours, the result will be a somewhat clear flourescent yellow green liquid with a whitish scum on th surface.
Pour this off, but do not do not allow the the mash to get into the poured off liquid. If one chooses to strain seed mash for whatever little bit of liquid is left in it, let it sit for a few hours so that sediments can settle out. Throw the seed mash away. There is no need to repeat the process with it as virtually all of the actives are removed by the HCl in the first extraction. All that remains in the seeds are the yucky gums and waxes that make Peganum harmala as yucky as it is.
Boil down the yellow liquid to about 30 to 40 ml, then dry completely. Theoretically, the result should be a redish brown paste that will have scattered all over it what appear to be ever growing circles of solidifying matter that look like mold colonies. Upon closer inspection one will find that the circles are crystals-- harmine and harmaline HCl. In theory HCl extraction gets the actives out and leaves most of the waxes and gums in the seed mash.
Dry it completely and if done properly, theoretically the result will be about 6 to 7 grams of hard, dark brown material rich in MOAI content. This theorecticlaly will make about 3 to 4 applications.
And from what has been related to me-- when this is reconsituted with a cup of hot water it tastes far far better than the regular practice of hard boiling extracts of Peganum harmala three times over to make a tea.
Vinegar/Salt Rue extraction
Here's a kitchen alchemy adaptation.
It is well worth it, and in fact the only way i'll use rue. I don't think using crude teas made from rue seeds is a healthy move in the long term.
The extract seems to be 50%-70% pure b-carboline hydrochloride salts, very easily absorbed. Major impurity by weight is common salt. The effect is much cleaner , with almost no nausea or cramped sensations.
The extraction is quite efficient as long as the seeds are ground, and soaked 3 times ...
You will need scales accurate to 100mg , or preferably less, to use the extract.
Coarsely ground seeds are preferable to a fine powder as the latter is difficult to filter.
1-make up a 3% acetic acid solution by mixing 3 parts distilled vinegar to 2 parts distilled water.
From this solution measure 3 times the weight of the seeds for the first soak (eg 100g seeds> 300ml vinegar water) and then 2 times the weight of the seeds for each of the 2 subsequent soaks.
2-(The original recipe called for two 3-day-long soaks. I have found this to be inefficient). After 3 approx week-long soaks, with daily shaking, the seeds are strained off and the liquid filtered with 2-ply tissue paper. This may take overnight. Coffee filters tend to block.
3- Let the liquid stand for 24 hours , then fiter again using tissue paper . LEAVE SEDIMENT BEHIND. Try not to pour it into your filter at all. Leave a little of the liquid behind if it helps with avoiding pouring the sediment out.
4-Then the liquid's volume is measured in a measuring jug, and salt is added at a rate of 100g per liter of liquid. ie if you have 200ml of liquid add 20g of salt. I like to add a bit more salt to ensure crystallisation later. Then i bring the mix to a low boil for a few minutes, let cool a little bit , then pour in a warmed-up glass jar.
4- Let it stand UNDISTURBED for 24hours in a cool place. Then carefully put in the fridge for a few more hours (optional) and voila , you should see nice brown crystal formations on the bottom and sides of the jar. If there is no solid precipitate in the jar after 2 days , pour into a pan and boil a little to reduce the volume, and repeat this step.
5- Very slowly and carefully pour off as much of the liquid as you can , watching that the crystals arent poured off. They will be mostly stuck to the glass. Its preferable to get rid of all of the liquid even if it means losing a few grains . If too much liquid is left in the jar with too many crystals floating around , then pour through coffee filter and scrape the crystals off the paper with a knife and dump them back into the jar if you want to further purify, or skip the next step.
6-THIS STEP IS ENTIRELY OPTIONAL : Now further clean the alkaloids : mix 200ml dist. water with 20g of salt until salt is dissolved, and pour into the jar . Add more water/salt at the same rate (100g/liter) for larger scale. Stir and let sit again overnight, until the crystals settle to the bottom again. The original recipe calls for hot water here, but i found that turned the crystals into a mush that refused to recrystalise. Cold water worked fine.
7-Again pour liquid off carefully, then scrape wet crystals out of the jar with a butter knife and onto a large , clean and dry ceramic or glass plate. To dry it, put on top of a pot of water, bring to the boil, or put on top of a heater, and soon you will be left with a yellow brown crust on the plate. When its totally dry scrape it off with a razor blade or plastic card. The extract should feel dry and hard, if it is soft it's still got water in it.
That's it! Simply stir into hot water until dissolved.
Here is another set of proven ayahuasca recipes, originally printed in The Resonance Project, Issue 2, winter 1997/1998.
My name is Mimosquero. Here is the methodology that works for me in preparing the Good Medicine. Source plants and quantities (These are given in one dose measurements. Please adjust accordingly):
Mimosa hostilis from the Amazonian region via North American Entheogen supply. If pure root bark is used then 8 grams finely ground to a powder or stringy fiber is sufficient. If some of the root is mixed with the bark, then adjust the dosage to 12 grams. The magic is more concentrated in the root bark although the whole root does contain some.
Syrian rue. 3 grams finely powdered via grinder or mortar and pestle. The seeds are difficult to grind and much effort is needed. The finer the powder the better.
Distilled water treated with the juice of a lemon and 250 mg of crushed ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is sufficient to produce an acidic aqueous solution.
Place the bark and seed powder in a small stainless steel pot and bring to a low boil (barely 100 degrees C) over an open fire (with careful attention and prayer) or a hot stove (also with careful attention and prayer). Stir the brew frequently and allow to boil for about 20 minutes. More prepared acidic water should be added as needed to keep the liquid from completely boiling off. Then decant the brew and strain through a fine wire mesh. Coffee filters are too fine, but cheesecloth, panty hose, or 'permanent coffee filters' work well. Press the mush and try to squeeze out as much liquid as possible. This can be accomplished with cheesecloth or an old fashioned rag, like a cloth diaper.
Boil the mush again in the prepared water and repeat the process for a total of three times. Combine the liquids and slowly simmer to a reasonable, drinkable amount. Observe the usual dietary precautions before drinking the brew. Some prefer to sip slowly, others to down the beverage as quickly as possible. The slow sipping probably reduces nausea although it prolongs the onset and lessens the intensity.
With pure root bark:
The onset was rapid. Within 15 minutes closed eye visuals were pronounced, a feeling of losing physical boundaries was also present. There were no physical sensations other than where the skin may be there was air. The objects in the room danced with life and seemed to rush forward into the air. A definite 3-D effect. Within another five minutes the room was no longer recognizable. Reading was impossible. Geometries were overwhelming and seemed to wash over me with an orgasmic type pleasure. Traveling. It is traveling. New indescribable places were unfolding before my eyes. Everything was vibrant and alive. There was utter peace. An ever shifting play of color never ceased to make the experience boring. Voices can be heard. Music can be heard. Yet there isn't anyone here to speak or play music. A voice asks"Would you like to go deeper?" It was a female voice. Reassuring. As I would think about going deeper the colors would flow over me and bring me to new spaces - each one more bizarre than before. Impossible objects from the past were floating in space. Things like huge HP calculators, Vertibird helicopter toys. Scenes of childhood were evident. No entities. All in all a 5 hour experience.
On 12 grams (3 grams rue) of M.H. root and root bark:
Prepared as above. Same colorful trip but lighter. Took a full hour to come on. Relaxed feeling probably from the harmala was first noticeable. Slight nausea (not really nausea, but a strange feeling in the stomach, I almost thought about throwing up, but it quickly passed). Enjoyable, psychedelic, but without the 'journey' of the root bark. Also much more short lived.
20g M. hostilis
3g. P. harmala
RealLemon(tm) lemon juice
Erowid Comment: Please note that active alkaloid levels in plant material can vary significantly from one specimen to another. Significant concern has been expressed that with high alkaloid plant material, recipe #2 could be a very high and potentially dangerous dose.
Here's the best recipe we've ever heard of from an alien. Fast. Simple. Very, VERY effective.
1. Take 2g of ground P. Harmala (no preparation needed) orally.
2. Grind 20g M. hostilis in coffee grinder to a fine, purplish powder.
3. Create mixture of 30-40% RealLemon(tm) and water. Stir in M. Hostilis and bring to a simmer for 15 minutes. Stir frequently.
4. Filter purple liquid through colander or mesh strainer.
5. Add remaining plant matter to a new lemon juice & water mix and stir for another 15 minutes.
6. Take remaining 1g P. harmala.
7. Drain off liquid into cup (should fill it up about halfway) and drink quickly.
8. Wait 15-20 minutes. Retch.
9. Retch some more.
10. Try to regain your composure and balance after dry-heaving.
11. Lie back and listen to some didgeridoo music.
12. Begin to think you're dying, being devoured to the clean-picked bone by a school of rainbow piranhas, submerged in the hell-realms suffering brutal tortures and repeated dismemberment at the teeth and claws of the blood-dripping minions of Lord Yama and various ferocious Mezoamerican deities like Tezcatlipoca simultaneously.
13. Experience a complete and utter ontological meltdown at the face of imminent death. Recognize if the 'huasca kills you now you'll be caught in one of the hell-bardos for a minor eternity due to your accumulated bad karma. Keep repeating your name to remind yourself that you have a body. Shower repeatedly to wash away the overwhelming forces of evil fighting over your soul ã in between rounds of projectile diarrhea. Marvel at just how full of shit you are.
14. Panic, but try to remind yourself that time is your ally, even though each moment seems like an eternity of suffering. Remember that"this too shall pass." Believe this with the greatest skepticism.
15. Continue this way for several hours, wondering all along if you'll actually be able to come out of the hell-worlds intact.
16. Wake up the following morning, swearing off psychedelics for at least a very long while, still fearful of inadvertently re-invoking this terrifying state of consciousness.
17. Go to bed the following night and reexperience this realm of consciousness during the hypnagogic state and nearly die of fright that you'll wind up in an ontological cul-de-sac someplace, dribbling down your chin until your time is up.
18. Eat LOTS of red meat, drink alcohol, lots of Tamasic foods. Try to get grounded. The quotidian banality of three dimensions can be a sane human's best friend.
19. Finally, several weeks later, look back on the experience without feeling a lingering sense of terror.
20. Begin to regain some perspective. Consider trying 'la purga' again under the supervision of a very experienced shaman able to help those less experienced to finally conquer these treacherous realms (as must ultimately be done). One must go into the breach again to be fully cured.
21. Maintain a VERY HEALTHY respect for the Vine of the Soul, recognizing that it can kill, regardless of what they say about tryptamine neurotoxicity. The tryptamines won't kill you; the heart-stoppage from unmitigated terror can, though.
Ayahuasca For The Whole Village
55 Gal stainless steel drum with lid
30 gal pot with lid (55 gal drum cut down)
Large Gas burner
Items for processing plant material:
Logs with flat sides for pounding surface
Buckets to wash leaves
Plant materials used:
Banisteriopsis Caapi: 18 kilos of fresh vine
Psychotria viridis: 6 kilos fresh leaves
The vine was cut from a plant that is approximately six years old. The diameter of the pieces was from one quarter to one inch. The pieces were cut into lengths of approximately two feet. These pieces were then pounded on a log with wooden mallets. The leaves were picked and rinsed in water.
The pounded vine was layered alternately with leaves into the large cooking pot, filling it about three quarters full. Enough water was added to cover plant materials, approximately forty gallons. The lid was put on the pot and the burner turned on high. It came to a full rolling boil in about two hours.
The burner was adjusted to keep the brew at a good medium boil with the lid on. After boiling all night, about ten hours, the lid was removed. It took another six hours of boiling to reduce the water to about half of the original volume. This twenty gallons of liquid was poured off into the smaller pot for further reduction, and was boiled on high heat for three hours until it was reduced to about one and a half gallons. This was set aside to cool.
For a final wash, thirty gallons of water were added to the large pot with the cooked down plant material. This was once again cooked all night with the lid on and boiled down the next day. The final boil down yielded about three quarters of a gallon of liquid. This was added to the first boil down yielding about two and a quarter gallons of liquid. The brew was boiled again and poured into sterile canning jars and sealed.
Dosage (results may vary):
50 ml: Euphoria, color enhancement, no nausea
100 ml: Euphoria, eyes closed visuals of geometric patterns, slight nausea
150 ml: Full on trip, geometric eyes open patterns, eyes closed visuals leading to coherent visions, some nausea It is best to consume in divided doses of 50 ml over several hours. This helps to avoid nausea and abrupt reactions.
Note: Ayahuasca is powerful medicine and should not be consumed lightly or in combination with other drugs. Ayahuasca contains an MAO inhibitor, and should never be taken with an SSRI or any other prescription medications. Relative potency of ayahuasca source plants may vary, so please start with low doses to test for desired results. Use ayahuasca at your own risk. These recipes are only intended as guidelines, your results may vary.
©Copyright Resonant Media, 1998. All rights reserved.
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1.) Soak either...
~ A.) Virola inner bark resin (8% 5-MeO + natural MAOI's)
~ B.) ground up Mimosa hostilis bark (1%+ n,n dmt) AND concentrated MAOI source (Rue, Caapi X-tract, etc.)
...in 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol (***NEVER in denatured, ethanol, methanol, heptane, naptha, zippo fluid or hexane!!!***)
2.) Mix --1/8 the portion of plant ally used-- of edible Lime in, mixing it well with the plant matter and making sure to dissolve BOTH as well as possible. i.e. if you were soaking 8g of virola inner bark resin in some isopropyl, then you would need to mix in exactly 1/8 of a gram of CaO (edible lime) with the virola resin.
3.) Keep shaking, mixing, stirring occasionally, in between long periods of letting the enhanced alcohol mixture sit. Before you let any of the isopropyl evaporate, though, you must first...
4.) mix a nice ganja flower into the mix!! But make sure the stuff in the alcohol has dissolved significantly enough first, of course. By soaking the cannabis bud in this mixture, the weed will now be infused with the dmt-enhanced alcohol!!!! Make sure you put enough bud in to soak up ALL the liquid/mush.
5.) let the alcohol evaporate, the bud dry out, and VOILA! no trace of alcohol or any poisonous chemicals, no bad odor or foul smell!!! On the contrary it smells like an exotic form of hashish, and fragrant like opium also.
6.) smoke an enjoy!!!
Courtesy of Om.
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